Capo's - Page 2

The new restaurant from Tony's Pizza Napoletana serves pizza and Italian treats you can't refuse

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Capo's quattro forni comes out piping hot -- but you'll need to order it ahead of time
GUARDIAN PHOTO BY VIRGINIA MILLER

Appropriate for a Chicago-influenced spot, there are four types of pies: deep dish, cast iron pan, stuffed, and cracker-thin ($17-35). You can't go wrong. Meat blissfully dominates most pies (unless you build your own), whether folds of Italian beef, thinly shaved in authentic Chi-town fashion, or house Calabrese, fennel, or Italian sausages, shown off in the likes of the Sam Giancana or Old Chicago pies. Italian Stallion pizza, which I prefer in cracker-thin form, showcases Italian beef, heightened by a drizzle of horseradish cream and insanely good sweet-hot peppers you'll find on a number of Capo's pies. Flour-based crust gets texture and complexity from a dusting of cornmeal, while Tony reveals a key to its perfection: European butter and a bit of lard. Fresh cheese oozes, unlike chewy wads of low-quality mozzarella I'm faced with in some of Chicago's venerable deep dish houses.

Elmer Mejicanos heads up a whiskey-centric bar program, housing over 100 American-dominant whiskies, while Tony mentions finding a few antique whiskey bottles dating back to the 1920s in the basement (when are we pouring?) Building your own Old Fashioned is a key menu focus, alongside a short-but-sweet cocktail list ($12). After trying every one on the menu, I've re-ordered only The Silencer. Carpano Antica takes the form of ice cubes melting in Campari, Seltzer Sister Soda and crystals of brandy — an ideally bitter, bright aperitif. A glass of Chianti or Montepulciano is well-suited to all that red sauce: Tony's longtime business partner Marni McKirahan runs the wine program, also highlighting rare Midwest wineries.

If I seem to be gushing, perhaps I am. Visiting three times in the first month alone, I've sampled almost every listed pizza and cocktail. Some new openings are exciting, fresh, visionary. A spare few respect the past, even perfect it.

641 Vallejo, SF. (415) 986-8998, www.sfcapos.com

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Comments

It took some years to learn that eating deep-dish makes my stomach feel like it's full of dough--which I guess it is. I'm sure Capo's will have some other dish I might like--hopefully cheaper than La Locanda.

I like my pies Naples-style, and since Tony's is across town, I get to Mozzeria on 16th and Guerrero often. They've got the essentials for a perfect margherita (pizza, that is): mozzarella di buffalo and a wood-burning stove.

Recently, my girlfriend and I rode the 33-Stanyan past Delfina (gas oven only), which had people waiting on the sidewalk for lunch, en route to Mozzeria. The place was empty. Nice to be seated immediately but an ominous sign. Their margherite are every bit as delicious and authentically napoletana as Tony's.

Why aren't people lining up for Mozzeria?

Posted by Carl Russo on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 12:24 pm
Posted by lillipublicans on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 1:11 pm

Arinells is hit and miss, if it is fresh it is delicious, but if it is not, you're shoveling shoe leather down your gullet.

Posted by marcos on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 1:23 pm

is not absolutely uniform from day-to-day, but even when it's "bad" it is still damn good; and when it's good, there is no better pizza experience on either side of the Hudson River.

Arinell's Pizza is the best of both worlds with it's New York-style construction balance and hole-in-the-wall eating environment along with the San Francisco sourdough culture.

Good music is generally on hand at Arinell's too.

Posted by lillipublicans on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 1:44 pm

I like Deja Vu! You gotta wait, though.

Posted by Guest on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 1:38 pm

Escape from New York and Zante's Indian Pizza.

Posted by Eddie on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 2:24 pm

Soggy, nasty mess. Yuck.

Posted by Lucretia Snapples on Jan. 03, 2013 @ 2:47 pm

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate you reading & commenting...

I'm a big fan of Mozzeria and it certainly is an underrated gem, although there's so much excellent Neapolitan pizza in the Bay Area, it's easy to get lost in the shuffle in that oversaturated category.

This review was for solely for Capo's, since it just opened in December, and is one of three incredible dish pizza restaurants we have here in the Bay Area. And Tony's first venture into deep dish.

Arinell's is definitely "real deal" NY slice... reminds me of hole-in-the-wall, by-the-slice joints I'd frequent in my younger days in NYC.

Now I'm hungry for pizza...

http://www.sfbg.com/category/author/virginia-miller

Posted by Virginia Miller on Jan. 25, 2013 @ 2:17 pm

I had visited one off sites to see the recipe and luckily i had got it. After tryingh so hard in my double oven temperature set i found good taste.

Posted by Benjman on Jul. 30, 2013 @ 8:58 pm

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